The sun sets on the Threefoot Building on Jan. 11, 2011 in downtown Meridian, Mississippi. At 16-stories tall, the Threefoot Building is the tallest building in Meridian and was originally built as an Art Deco Center. It was listed as one of America’s Most Endangered Places in 2010. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
It’s the high lonesome of a freight train’s whistle on a cold night. It’s the low-down gut growl of homegrown blues wafting through a breezeway, mingling with the scent of fried green tomatoes and collard greens. It’s “sugar” and “darlin’” with a side of sass. It’s backdoor gossip and movie star glam, rags to riches, old money meets new and shakes hands over a shot of bourbon neat. It’s everything you expect and nothing you think it will be, steeped in South, dyed in cotton, and starched for church on Sunday.
Welcome to Meridian, Mississippi.
A vintage Meridian & Bigbee caboose sits behind the Meridian Railroad Museum, Jan. 9, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. The museum, which is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. every first and third Saturday, features photographs and artifacts detailing Meridian’s history as “a child of the railroad.” (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
The first thing you have to understand about Meridian is that the founding fathers — Richard McLemore, John Ball, and Lewis Ragsdale — could have really benefited from a dog-eared Webster’s, a quick lesson in geography, and a dash of foresight. The second thing you have to understand is that no one here cares.
True enough, Meridian sits nowhere near a major line of longitude, despite the old city slogan, “88 Degrees: A Better Longitude on Life.” The 88-degree line is actually in Alabama, between Livingston and Demopolis. But that wasn’t the origin of the name anyway.
The town was first known as Sowashee Station, from a Cherokee word meaning “mad river.” Ragsdale, a lawyer, wanted it to be called “Ragsdale City.” Ball, a merchant, wanted it to be called “Baldwin.” Industrial supporters, heavily dependent on the burgeoning Mobile and Ohio Railroad, called it “Meridian,” mistakenly believing the word meant “junction.”
The bustling train station bore the brunt of the controversy, exhibiting a revolving nameplate that changed sometimes several times a day. In 1860, someone tired of the confusion and filed for incorporation as “Meridian.”
The name stuck, but the Ragsdale vs. Baldwin saga didn’t end. One wanted the streets laid out in standard cardinal points — north, south, east, west. The other thought streets should parallel the all-important railroad track.
So what does this mean for a visitor? It’s alarmingly easy to end up driving the wrong way down a one-way street. Intersections in some spots pose a geometrical puzzle worthy of a Mensa quiz.
This brings up another thing you need to know: Sure, you can experience the best of Meridian in a day, but we propose spending the weekend.
Friday night in Meridian, Mississippi
A sign advertises hangs above the doorway of Echo Lounge, proclaiming it as “A Mississippi Juke Joint,” Feb. 28, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
You might want to get a good feel for the lay of the land before you stop at Echo Lounge for a taste of juke joint goodness and cool libation. Don’t ask why, just go. It’s a must.
By the time you’re finished soaking up smoke, sucking down liquor, and grooving local favorites like Chris Etheridge (formerly of The Flying Burrito Brothers and the International Submarine Band), you’re going to be too relaxed to do much more than stroll over to Weidmann’s for a nightcap.
Albert Morton pets his dog, Sweetie, as patrons shoot pool at Echo Lounge, Feb. 28, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. Echo bills itself as an authentic Mississippi juke joint and is a popular destination for tourists as well as locals. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Meridian has a rich and varied musical heritage, and this urban wonder, situated in the heart of downtown, is a big part of the local lore. So set aside your first night in town for Echo. Relax. Drink in the atmosphere. Taste authentic Mississippi. Enjoy.
Saturday Morning in Meridian, Mississippi
A vintage ad for National Biscuit Company’s Uneeda Biscuit is pictured on the side of a building, Jan. 9, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. The company was among the first to launch a million dollar campaign to advertise its products. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Meridian is the home of Peavey Electronics. Saturday, you can tour the Hartley Peavey Visitor Center and view the guitars, amplifiers, and keyboards which provide the backbeat for a nation.
Perhaps more famously, Meridian is the town that gave birth to the father of country music, “singing brakeman” Jimmie Rodgers. If it’s Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday, you can wander through the Jimmie Rodgers Museum and examine his original guitar and other memorabilia. (If you want to learn more about Jimmie Rodgers, check out the biography, Meeting Jimmie Rodgers: How America’s Original Roots Hero Changed the Pop Sounds of a Century).
If you stayed in one of the many hotels near downtown, you’re close to The Checker Board, a casual Southern diner that’s easy on the stomach and the wallet. Sample cheesy eggs from the breakfast buffet. Return for seconds. You’ll need your energy, because it’s going to be a busy day.
Head over to the Antique Mall of Meridian, where you can buy anything from milk glass to mantels. (If you’re really into history, you might also like visiting Greenwood, Mississippi.)
Vintage glass door knobs are displayed in a straw basket at the Antique Mall of Meridian, Jan. 9, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. The store is open Mondays through Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Grab a few bars of locally milled castile soap. (The coconut cream-scented is divine.) Pick up a handmade kudzu candle. Scratch shop cat Mr. Bojangles behind his broken, battle-scarred ears.
Mr. Bojangles naps on a sales counter, Jan. 9, 2011, at the Antique Mall of Meridian in Meridian, Mississippi. The store is open Mondays through Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Be careful with the credit card. Prices are cheap and the wares are plenty. You’ll spend more than you intended, trust me.
If you’re in the mood for art, downtown is where it’s at. Whimsical, hand-painted carousel horses — 62 in all — dot nearly every corner as part of “Around Town Carousels Abound,” a permanent public art exhibit founded by hometown actress Sela Ward and benefiting Hope Village for Children). If you’re lucky, you might catch an artist at work in one of the many galleries.
A carousel horse sits outside Union Station, Jan. 9, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. The statue is one of 62 horses distributed throughout town as part of the “Around Town Carousels Abound” permanent public art exhibit, which benefits Hope Village for Children. The Union Station horse, titled “Iron Horse,” was designed by artist Jim Brashier and sponsored by Carousels Abound. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
If you’re even luckier, you may stumble upon the Meridian Museum of Art on a day when the local artist’s group is holding a workshop. The museum itself is small, with only three rotating galleries and 500 pieces in the permanent collection, but it’s a real treat, especially if you want a taste of the state’s most prominent up and coming visionaries.
This is a former Carnegie Library, one of two built in the city (one for whites and one for African-Americans), by philanthropist Andrew Carnegie in 1912. Boehm porcelain reproductions, avant-garde paintings, experimental photography, tribal sculptures, traditional oils — whatever your taste, you’ll find something to tantalize your retina.
Saturday Afternoon in Meridian, Mississippi
From left, Isom Smith, Noelle Smith, and Sarah Smith feed the ducks at Highland Park, Jan. 12, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. A wide variety of birds and waterfowl populate the park, making it a favorite destination for avian hobbyists. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Take a picnic lunch to Highland Park, and bring along a sack of bread to feed the many birds that populate the lagoon.
Avoid this rooster, who lives at Highland Park in Meridian, Mississippi. He has a mean streak. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Built in 1908 as a hat tip to the national zeitgeist of streetcar pleasure parks, Highland Park boasts a stone footbridge, promenade, gazebo, and carousel house featuring a handcrafted, historic carousel. Whether you’re young, or just young at heart, the latter is not to be missed.
Scott Wolfe and Johnny Lewis listen as tour guide Donna Savell tells them the history of the Dentzel Carousel, Jan. 15, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. The carousel, which was built in 1896, is hand-carved and painted and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Manufactured in 1896 by Philadelphia cabinet maker and German immigrant Gustav Dentzel for the 1904 St. Louis Exposition Fair, the carousel is listed on the National Register of Historic Places — a designation given to only 11 carousels nationwide and the only one in the South.
Painted giraffes are among the fanciful zoo animals at the Dentzel Carousel, Jan. 15, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
To say that it’s stunning is a gross understatement. Every inch shows meticulous care and incredibly detailed artistry. A double row of 28 fanciful zoo animals — hand-carved and stripped to their original paint coat — is interspersed with chariots, which beg for a sweetly romantic moment. Indeed, the carousel has been the site of many first dates and marriage proposals. It bears homage to the miracles that can happen when enough time (11 years), enough money (approximately $112,000), and enough heart (immeasurable) is given to historic preservation and restoration.
A patriotic painting adorns the Dentzel Carousel, Jan. 15, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Take a minute and look upwards. Admire the 64 original oil paintings in canvas and wood. Remember a time when craft was king and art was everything. It’s a breathtaking experience, and at 50 cents per ride, it’s a bargain.
A pastoral painting adorns the Dentzel Carousel, Jan. 15, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. The carousel, which was built in 1896, is hand-carved and painted and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
It’s easy to wile away the afternoon at Highland Park, but other joys lie hidden throughout the city.
Explore Merrehope, a 20-room Victorian mansion that is one of only six historic homes left standing after Gen. William Tecumseh Sherman’s devastating rampage during the Civil War.
Wander down to the Union Station historic district and see where Meridian’s history began as a “child of the railroad.” Pull up a chair and listen to Meridian Railroad Museum director Mick Nussbaum, who relishes the “detective work” of sussing the town’s industrial heritage and has spent years amassing collectibles and an impressive library of railroad tomes.
A display room is packed with memorabilia at the Meridian Railroad Museum, Jan. 15, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. The museum, which is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. every first and third Saturday, features photographs and artifacts detailing Meridian’s history as “a child of the railroad.” (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Wander outside the museum and view a vintage Meridian & Bigbee caboose, a 56-seat coach car, and a 90-year-old Pullman sleeper that briefly served as a popular local diner and was used as child actress Natalie Wood’s playhouse in the 1966 movie, “This Property is Condemned.”
A 90-year-old Pullman sleeper car, used in the movie “This Property is Condemned,” sits behind the Meridian Railroad Museum, Jan. 9, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Be sure to check out the model railroad track, too. The intricate display includes nearly 300 feet of track and custom, handmade figurines.
A model train sits on a track at the Meridian Railroad Museum, Jan. 15, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Imagine Meridian before the railroad came through in 1860, turning it from a sleepy agrarian community into a Southeastern powerhouse and multi-modal epicenter for Amtrak, Greyhound, and other transportation services.
A railroad worker’s cancelled paycheck, dated 1913, is pictured at the Meridian Railroad Museum, Jan. 15, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Stroll across the street and get an old-fashioned shoeshine at The Shine King. Take time to talk with owner Ernest Robinson, who got his start as a teenager at a downtown newsstand in order to buy a bicycle. Get him to tell you about a long-forgotten art. Sure, you can text or chat on the phone while he shines — you wouldn’t be the first. But you’d miss the chance to talk to a man who loves shoes (he owns more than 66 pair and religiously, fanatically keeps them polished), and loves Meridian.
Shoe shiner Ernest Robinson poses for a picture outside his business, The Shine King, Jan. 11, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. King learned to shine shoes as a teenager while working at a newsstand in downtown Meridian. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
“It relaxes my mind to just sit here rubbing on shoes,” he says. “People don’t get their shoes shined like they used to. Nowadays people don’t care about their shoes, but back then, people were particular. It makes me proud when people get off the stand and say I brought their shoes back to life.”
Ernest Robinson shines a pair of snakeskin books for a customer at The Shine King, Jan. 11, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Check out the long-abandoned Terminal Hotel, Hotel Meridian, and Union Hotel. Imagine the days when the railroad was booming and the streets were filled with travelers and rail workers. See the past, virtually untouched.
The Hotel Meridian, no longer in operation, is pictured, Jan. 9, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
As the sun sets, take an evening stroll through Rose Hill Cemetery. See the towering angel over the Ragsdale family plot. Leave a memento at the grave of gypsy queen Kelly Mitchell, who is apparently partial to fruit, jewelry, and cheap liquor.
Mardi Gras beads decorate the headstone of gypsy queen Kelly Mitchell at Rose Hill Cemetery in Meridian, Mississippi. Mitchell was a member of the Gypsy Royal Family, many of whom are buried nearby. Tourists and visitors often leave gifts of fruit, trinkets, and liquor on the family’s graves. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Ponder the quotation placards sprinkled liberally throughout the grounds. Mull the riddles of the universe and questions of eternity. Or just breathe deeply and prepare for the night ahead.
Saturday Night in Meridian, Mississippi
No question about it, if there’s a performance happening at the MSU Riley Center downtown, that’s the place to be. The lovingly restored 1889 Grand Opera House is a sight to behold. Thanks to decades of lawsuits, the original building went largely untouched for decades after its closing, leaving the original woodwork, wainscoting, wall coverings, and lambrequin intact and ripe for an ambitious $25 million restoration project by Mississippi State University, the Riley Foundation, and community leaders in 2006.
The stage has been shared by the likes of Big Head Todd and The Monsters and the Meridian Symphony Orchestra. Upcoming performers include the Jimmy Dorsey Orchestra, Bruce Hornsby, Robert Earl Keen, and Jonny Lang.
Sunday morning in Meridian, Mississippi
Honestly, this is the best reason of all to make a trip to Meridian into a weekend-long affair: Brunch at Weidmann’s Restaurant. Sure, you can go to Weidmann’s at other times, but brunch in this upscale, downtown eatery is a luxe experience. Rub elbows with the movers and shakers of Meridian. Chat with the waitresses. Or just sit by the window and people watch.
Yes, they still serve the quaintly eclectic peanut butter and crackers. Yes, they’re open again after a brief hiatus and management revamp. Yes, they’re better than ever.
A peanut butter crock sits on the table at Weidmann’s Restaurant, Jan. 16, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. The restaurant, which opened in 1870 and is the oldest restaurant in Mississippi, is well-known for its unusual offering of peanut butter and crackers for diners to enjoy while waiting for their meal. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
A meal incorporating all the favorites will set you back $35, but one bite of the shrimp and grits will make you forget the cost. My recommendation: a crab cake appetizer drizzled with remoulade and served on a fried green tomato, fresh Gulf shrimp served over cheese grits and topped with ham and a light cream sauce, and Black Bottom pie for dessert.
A crab cake, drizzled with remoulade sauce and served atop a fried green tomato, is served as an appetizer at Weidmann’s Restaurant, Jan. 16, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Fresh Gulf shrimp is served atop a bed of cheese grits at Weidmann’s Restaurant, Jan. 16, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. The restaurant, which opened in 1870, is the oldest restaurant in Mississippi. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Black Bottom Pie is served at Weidmann’s Restaurant, Jan. 16, 2011, in Meridian, Mississippi. The restaurant, which opened in 1870, is the oldest restaurant in Mississippi. (Photo by Carmen K. Sisson/TumbleweedSOUTH)
Elegant, extravagant, oh-so-Meridian, and worth every penny.
Info
Echo Lounge
2104 C St.
Meridian, MS 39301
601-693-1523
Mon-Sun 4:30 p.m. – 1 a.m.
Peavey Electronics
G.V. “Sonny” Montgomery Northeast Industrial Park
Meridian, MS 39301
601-483-5365
Mon – Fri 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.
Sat/ and Sun. 1-4 p.m.
Admission: Free.
Jimmie Rodgers Museum
1725 Jimmie Rodgers Dr.
Meridian, MS 39307
601-485-1808
Tues-Thurs 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.
Admission: $5 adults, children under 10 free.
The Checker Board
2223 S. Frontage Rd.
Meridian, MS 39301
601-481-1039
Mon-Sun 6 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.
Antique Mall of Meridian
1411 Roebuck Dr.
Meridian, MS 39301
601-483-4683
Mon – Sat 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Meridian Museum of Art
628 25th Ave.
Meridian, MS 39301
601-693-1501
Wed-Sat 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Admission: Free
Highland Park
19th St. and 41st Ave.
Meridian, MS 39307
601-485-1802
Open seven days a week.
Admission: Free
Dentzel Carousel
19th St. and 41st Ave.
Meridian, MS 39307
601-485-1904
Open April May, August, and October on Saturdays and Sundays only from 1-5 p.m.
June through July, open seven days a week from 1-5 p.m.
Open November through March on Saturdays only from 1-5 p.m.
Admission: $1 per person. Rides: 50 cents per ride.
Merrehope
905 Martin Luther King Jr. Dr.
Meridian, MS 39301
601-483-8439
Tues-Sat 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.
Admission: $10 for both houses, $5 for one house.
Meridian Railroad Museum
1805 Front St.
Meridian, MS 39301
601-485-RAIL
Open every first and third Saturday from 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.
Admission: Free
The Shine King
1904 Front St.
Meridian, MS 39301
601-604-1218
Hours fluctuate. Call for a schedule.
Rose Hill Cemetery
8th St. and 40th Ave.
Meridian, MS 39301
601-483-4225
Open seven days a week.
Admission: Free
MSU Riley Center
2200 5th St.
Meridian, MS 39301
601-696-2200
Call for an event schedule and admission fees.
Weidmann’s Restaurant
210 22nd Ave.
Meridian, MS 39301
601-581-5770
Mon-Thur 11 a.m. – 9:30 p.m
Fri-Sat 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.
Sun 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.
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